Відео

@@RobertRuckerJr not sure what the horizontal lines are. Are you talking with regards to flicker due to lights?

@@khanceptbelal Thank you for responding back man! I’ve just sent you a video example in your email 🙏🏼

@@RobertRuckerJr that looks like it might be a power issue. Make sure that you are getting enough voltage through the dummy battery assuming you're using one. Let me know if you get the same bars. If you use the original standard battery as opposed to a dummy battery. If the bars disappear with regular battery then it's very likely a voltage power issue.

@@khanceptbelal ah man, I am definitely using a dummy battery hooked to an adapter kit to my wall socket. Do you have any light weight power bank recommendations so I can fix this problem as soon as possible?

@@RobertRuckerJr If it's connected to the wall socket, your problem might be the adapter kit. You may want a fast charging power brick that the USB can connect to that puts out a little bit more. On the other hand, the most reliable battery power bank has been one of those NP-F batteries. I have this one which has a USB port for power: Topwowe NP-F970 Multifunctional Battery Pack 7800mAh Supports PD 30W Fast Charging a.co/d/gsiALVY

@@honorthedead assuming you're referring to autofocus. Overall it works well, but between the range of 28-35 mm, the autofocus tends to hunt randomly. But between 18 and 24 mm the autofocus is just fine. I found most reliable results using the sigma art primes.

@@khanceptbelal Yeah that and the overall performance of this lens on the ZVE-10. I've been using the kit lens since I got the camera a couple of years ago and wanted to buy the sigma 18-35 but, I wasn't sure if I should get it. This is great information though and I will take your advice as I'm still learning about making videos etc. Much appreciated thanks very much 🙏🏼

@@honorthedead If you're not on multiple systems like myself where I use use EF Mount and micro 4/3 as well as e-mount, then having EF lenses becomes important. However, if I was exclusively e-mount then I wouldn't bother with the sigma 18 to 35. Assuming you know what focal lengths you like to shoot on then, I would get primes of those and I would have one versatile zoom like the sigma 18-50 f2.8. in my case, my prime set would be a tokina 20mm f2, sony zeiss 28mm f2, and sony ziess 55mm f1.8. I might swap out the tokina 20mm for the viltrox 16mm f1.8 and sony 11mm f1.8

@@khanceptbelal Well, I got the 7artisans EF-SE Lens Adapter Auto-Focus Lens Speedbooster Converter Ring Compatible for Canon EF/EF-SE Lens and Sony E-Mount Camera for Sony A6400, A7M3, A7M4, ZVE10. I was thinking about the sigma 18-50 mm but I want to make a few cool videos in a cinematic style, and figured since I have the 16-50, having these two senses might be sufficient for now. However, I think at some point I'll get the sigma 18-50. After watching some videos on the 18-50, it looks like a Len's I should definitely invest in. I'm still sorting of feeling my way around though as I only started to really use the camera more. Your video really helped me make the decision on buying the 18-35 👍🏼

You may also find this showcase of lenses helpful, which also includes the 18-35 ua-cam.com/video/hawuZvEr720/v-deo.html

@@davido9450 yup better results and controls than insta360 studio

The camera 😮

​@@LouisLuzuka Insta360 one r 1-inch

@@khanceptbelal it looks so good

This playlist basically covers everything about the M6ii ua-cam.com/play/PLYYLZ5q_9opvudl9z9U7cfswQPOiRcwT8.html - especially compared to other cameras.

@@khanceptbelal u the best

These are cameras that are designed for two different market segments. And it comes down to what you value, what's your deal-breaker, and what's your deal maker. For me personally, the Mark II is actually a worse camera for the context that I'm using the mark 1 for which is long form seminar recordings. Thus by default it becomes a deal-breaker for that use case. Based on that alone, the fx30 is really the only upgrade option that makes sense between the two. But that's specific to what I'm looking for and what my deal maker or breaker is. It's not going to be the same for you. If there isn't a particular feature or benefit you're looking for that is a deal-breaker. If the camera doesn't have it, then maybe the Mark II is a good option. But that's not a decision someone else can make, but you

@@khanceptbelal yeah the mark ii is not for me thank you for helping me decide I do want to film long form and I was thinking the mark I would be able to do that but u said it might be better to invest into the fx30, unless of course there’s a killer deal on the mark i zve10 original and people are upgrading to the new version ? Or do you think the deal breaker or the fx30 is worth skipping the zve10 all together, again this is just for long videos, mostly on UA-cam and on tripod, but I do have my fun cameras rhe canon but they suffer with anything more than 20 mins recording

@@khanceptbelal right now it’s $700 Canadian used on Facebook for the zve10 body only or $1600 with a bunch of lenses or I can get the fx30 for $2k + but no lenses

This is a showcase of the 1080P quality. ua-cam.com/video/p2odYG2eELY/v-deo.html - generally speaking, a lot of these mirrorless cameras have poor 1080p quality. Panasonic might be the exception though. If you really want good 1080P but are on a budget then. You may want to consider cameras like the Panasonic GH3 and GH4. Spend a little bit of money then consider the Canon c100. If I'm not mistaken, those cameras deliver you a 1080p file that's down sampled from 4K.

@@LouisLuzuka I use it for pro work from time to time. But, it really comes down to the scope of the project. When I was exclusively doing seminars on sony XD Cams (1-inch sensor video cameras) and I wanted to branch out into different types of media projects I'd almost exclusively use magic lantern. This is 2019. I then started building out my Lumix kit. The issue of using Magic lanterns isn't so much about whether it's pro or not. It definitely is a professional workflow. But it becomes a decision around turnaround time. Raw video workflow is certainly a longer turnaround time than shooting straight 8-bit or 10-bit video. I do bring on Magic Lantern as an additional camera from time to time on my professional projects, especially in the context where I need more control than a standard camera can offer.

@@khanceptbelal interesting perspective, so how it fits in the work flow is that you would rather have a different way of process, it’s almost like film 🎞️ it forces you to slow down in film photography but if you need a quick turn around it’s better to have an sd card or send it to your iPhone or iPad to do a quick edit for like instagram or client work, vs if you really want that look and you’re in no rush then you can get a film developed whenever, but yeah aside from the storage space holding me back I think I can manage a clip or two here and there to test it out, just to make it more intentional and I’ll save the longer recording for interviews and stuff, I’m really looking into the sony for that kind of work flow but for now I’m having fun with them eos m

You can output 4K from the Sony but the atem mini pro iso is going to encode in 1080p.

@@Haswole usually DP review would share it in the reviews of cameras. I've put together this document over time as a cheat sheet Sensor Readout Rolling Shutter Speeds (ms) www.evernote.com/shard/s236/sh/a208cb09-c39b-0911-a27b-19d4a9e9be00/YjYogh9MQRbxcaznmpug2s0GWLz7cxUrUm5pfKyOUKAAffv-3C4_r8LUGQ

@@khanceptbelal that's awesome. Thanks man.

In short - my inclination would be to skip the zv-e10 ii and go straight to FX30. But, that's for me and my needs. More on that here: ua-cam.com/video/-Ukz5sKVlkQ/v-deo.html

@@khanceptbelal currently on the video, but I do have a question I love my eos m would u still recommend the m6ii or even the m50 mark ii just for a everyday camera not a work horse camera like the fx30

@@nindtz You can utilize the ninja. But the most you can output is 4K 30. You have the option between 4k24 and 4K30 in terms of output resolution. This camera does not do 4k60 at all

@@HectorHAli walaikum asalaam. it would work as good as it would on any EF mount body.

@@khanceptbelal thank you brother

@@theprowrestlingshoot it'll record which ever frame you choose

@@khanceptbelal I appreciate that, man! This video was extremely helpful. Thank you!

It's going to come down to the specific mode or preset you're using within crop mood. Are you experiencing this and every preset or specific ones? If so which one?

@@fabiopisani8167 My issue with the a7c and almost every other Sony camera in low light is the internal noise reduction that is active which cannot be turned off. There's also a very noticeable color shift at higher isos on Sony. Canon seems to maintain its colors a better and I can also turn off the noise reduction. This is specifically the video. In photo mode, both cameras are excellent, especially with their raw files.

The adapter is still in beta testing phase. There are a few kinks that are being worked out. The final version should be ready for release soon as per Tom and Cole (The guys behind the dual mount). I've done a showcase here ua-cam.com/video/SsECMstVq5Y/v-deo.html

Are you talking about stabilizing shots you recorded on the iPhone itself?

@@khanceptbelalyes

@@edsonrodriguez4143 it might make more sense for you to enable enhanced stabilization from the settings of the camera app. It uses the gyro data to stabilize in the moment. That coupled with your gimbal it will make for a really smooth shots. Theoretically, you can use your phone as a gyro logger for a secondary camera. But the footage that you capture on your phone doesn't maintain a metafile for the gyro information - to my limited knowledge at least

Perfect bro. Thank you very much for your help

Let's assume there isn't a disproportionate bias against BIPOC. Reality is that total number of people shot to death by law enforcement is statistically up every year since 2017 www.statista.com/statistics/585152/people-shot-to-death-by-us-police-by-race/ - on the population data side, black people account for 13% of the population, yet are still nearly 20% of those fatally shot. Bottom line: be safe out there, especially if you're BIPOC

@@LouisLuzuka it's an 85 with a focal reducer, but what the 1.5 crop ends up being close to a 90.

@@khanceptbelal ohh you use focal reduction…. Wow, 🤯 that would make the fx30 basically a fx3 but save money 💰

@@LouisLuzuka not exactly. In terms of field of view, sure you get close to the intended field of view of the lens which was designed for full frame. But the major difference between a camera like an FX3/ZV-E1 and fx30 (or any of the other crop sensor line) is the internals. Things like sensored readout speed, dynamic range, signal to noise based on specific ISO settings. If the only concern is field of view with relation to crops and certain full framed and sure stick to crop sensor with a focal reducer and you get what you want.

😂❤

@@LouisLuzuka most action cams are already ultra wide angle. So it doesn't really make sense to do a multicam with multiple action cameras. One might make a case with the go3 plus the 1-inch, where with the 1-in you have room to crop that's giving you something close to a 20 mm while a go3 gives you something like an 11mm

@@khanceptbelal you’re smart, put it into linear, but would you experiment with osmo pocket 3?

@@LouisLuzuka I haven't tried the osmo pocket 3 so can't really comment on that.

Here yo go ua-cam.com/video/wDxFiw3l870/v-deo.html

It's about the same size as the nifty 50 1.8

But I’d still have the pancake in my kit for the small size 😂

Personally for me on anything wider than 85mm, gyroflow performance is better than optical is on the lens. But for telephoto, between 85 and 135 is a toss-up. In terms of performance. I think part of it has to do with how I'm moving at those telephoto ranges. But anything beyond 135 mm, it has to be stabilized with either a tripod or optical stabilization on the lens or both. Definitely optical stabilization on the lens at 135mm if I'm handheld. But that's just me. For this reason, in terms of how I shoot one lens on my list to check out is the Tamron 35-150mm EF f2.8-4 VC.